What follows is a visual story of a 33-day trip to Paris, Berlin, Rome and Central Israel. It tells a story about architecture, art, streets and people as we saw it, similarly to the way it could have been done in a film or in a narration.
When a friend offered us to have her apartment in Paris during the second half of June, we steered our original traveling plan, to visit our daughter in Israel, into a journey of exploration and discovery. We called our old Parisian friends Bernard and Catherine and asked for their help “to become Parisians for two weeks.” Their advice was unique. They also suggested to follow up our visit with a trip to Berlin together. We said “yes.” And how could we be in Europe without visiting Rome?
Unlike a film, this post offers flexibility in watching what you want to see in the order of your choice. You can: a. rapidly scan throughout the four galleries, to get a sense of the whole; b. focus on a particular place of your interest by clicking on the image; c. look at each gallery as a slideshow.
PARISIANS PARIS
Our place of residence was in rue du Bac, in the 7th arrondissement, close to Boulevard Saint-Germain. We had all that we needed in our footsteps: metro, bus, markets, and boulangeries with baguettes.
Frank Gehry’s Louis Vuitton Foundation was high on our visiting priorities. This work had provoked passionate discussions pro and against, and we wanted to make our own judgment. The building offered a valid example of what is possible in the creation of architectural spaces beyond the subject matter. We found fluidity of space and the use of steel, laminated wood and glass quite extraordinary.
Bernard led us to two less acrobatic buildings designed by Renzo Piano: the small Pathé Foundation with a wood and glass shell encrusted between old buildings which included a gate sculpted by Auguste Rodin, and the recently inaugurated 38-story high Courthouse.
The museums and galleries visited included the Orangerie, the Palais de Tokio, the Guimet Museum of Asian Art, the Petit Palais the Museum Picasso. Included in the gallery are selected artworks of our choice.
However, above all, we dedicated most of our time to walking the streets of Paris and using its excellent public transportation system to move around at ease. Our wanderings included Le Marais, the Canal Saint-Martin area with its community choirs, the Promenade Plantée, the Parc de Bercy, the Parc de la Villette, Les Halles, and the markets at Boulevard Raspaille, at rue Mouffetard and at Chateau Rouge, called Quartier Africain.
Rue du Bac in an aerial photograph
Aerial view
Boulevard Saint-Germain near rue du Bac
Towards the gate
View from across the street
Plaques: Former residence of Andre Malraux – novelist and Minister of Cultural Affairs – and Couve de Murville – Minister of Foreign Affairs and Prime Minister.
Mother and daughter
A la santé!
Architect: Frank Gehry. Front view
Louis Vuitton Foundation
View of lobby from the first floor
Visitor
Skylights
Interior
Shutting at a shutter
Panoramic view of the roof
View of the Eiffel Tower from the roof
View of la Defence
Structure at the roof
Lateral view
Architect: Renzo Piano. Model of complex.
Model.
View of the roof
Facade by August Rodin, 1869.
Section.
During construction.
During construction.
View of dome during construction
Interior.
View of conference room from office.
Conference room
Conference room.
Glass wall
Towards the exit
View of building “braking” the boulevard’s front.
Sculpture – Fountain by artist Charles Daudelin.
Architect: Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane. Completed in 2010.
Along the Seine
Building’s organization
Between the original concrete structure from 1907 and the exterior wall.
Moving message
By the”Passerelle des Arts,” designed by architect Dietmar Feichtinger
By the”Passerelle des Arts,” designed by architect Dietmar Feichtinger.
Boy and fish display
Cheeses
For the eyes
Also in Paris
At the park over Les Halles
The Blue Angel
Honoring Choreographer Balachine, co-founded of the New York City Ballet and its Artistic Director for 35 years.
Honoring the American composer, conductor, author, music lecturer, and pianist.
Honoring the Russian-born composer, pianist, and conductor.
Justice Symbol
View of the Courthouse from the Metro exit
Panoramic view
View from the lobby
Paris Courthouse – Lobby. Architect: Renzo Piano.
Lobby
Escalator
Message: “Every person has the right to be understood equitably, publicly and in a reasonable time.”
Large court room
Large Court. Ruth and Bernard.
Court
Court
Exterior Staircase.
Main entrance
Monet’s hall “The Nymphéas” (Water Lilies)
Entering the Walter-Guillaume collection of post-impressionist works
Walter-Guillaume collection of post-impressionist works
Andre Derain, 1929.
Pablo Picasso, 1921.
Amadeo Modigliani, 1915
Amadeo Modigliani, 1915.
Chaim Soutine, 1927.
Sam Francis, 1959.
Mark Rothko, 1948.
Mark Tobey, 1956.
Mark Tobey – Detail.
Helen Frankenthaler, 1963.
Maurice Utrillo, 1914.
Stairs by rue Gabrielle
Rue Gabrielle
Il Ristorante
Prayer
View
View
Organ
Sculptures by Anita Molinera, 2018
Sculptures by Anita Molinera, 2018
Sculpture detail, Anita Molinera, 2018
Tapestry by Caroline Achaintre 2015
Tapestry by Caroline Achaintre, 2014
By Caroline Achaintre’s tapestry
Multi-layers
Cafeteria
The “Palazzo Hérouet” with the 16th Century tower (échauguette) in rue des Francs Bourgeois.
History of Paris -The Pletzl, the Jewish quarter in the fourth arrondissement.
Guarding tower, “échauguette,” of”Hôtel de Lamoignon,” by architectAndrouet du Cerceau, 16th Century. Today is theBibliotèque historique de la ville de Paris.
Rue Vieille du Temple, Cafe Les Philosophes, frequented by Leon Trotsky and Jewish-Russian immigrants.
Rue des Rosiers
Nature and Discoveries, rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie
Nature and Discoveries – Entrance
Rue Pavee
École de Garçons
By the archade
Boy with red helmet
Time for lunch
Green Wall
Passage
Passage
By the Place de Vosges
Art Gallery
Art Gallery
Art Gallery
Art Gallery
Art Gallery
Selfie with three suits
Studio of fashion designer Issei Miyake
Cafe by the Place des Vosges
Afternoon rest
By the canal
Choir singing on the street
Choir singing on the street
Choir singing on the street
Choir singing on the street
Public at singing choirs
Resting on the grass
Canal lock
Canal lock and bridge
Designed by architect Bernard Tschumion the site of the huge Parisian “abattoirs” (slaughterhouses) and the national wholesale meat market.
Will Ryman’s installation
Will Ryman’s installation
Sculpture by Will Ryman
Follie
Geodesic dome designed by Adrien Fainsilbe, who also designed theCité des Sciences.
Parc de la Villette – Follie. Architect: bernard Tschumi.
Follie
Follie
Cité de la Musique, designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc.
Cité de la Musique
Cité de la Musique
Philharmonie de Paris, designed by architect Jean Nouvel.
Philharmonie de Paris
Study for La Guernica
Musée Picasso – La Guernica description.
Study for La Guernica
Study for La Guernica
Study for La Guernica
Painting by Picasso, age 14 – 1895.
Sculpture
Sculpture
Sculpture
Miro Self, 1919 – Picasso Collection
By Miro, 1921 – Picasso Collection
Stairway detail
Picasso photo
Time to step out
A new concept of public park, designed by Bernard Huet, Marylène Ferrand et Jean-Pierre Engas.
First Gehry in Paris – French Cinematheque
House of Wind – Parc de Bercy
Vegetable Garden
Karate class by the”Palais omnisports de Bercy” designed by architectsMichel Andrault et Pierre Parat.
Vineyard
Vineyard
Youth gathering
At the vegetable garden
At the vegetable garden
Skateboard park
Skateboard park
Cascading fountain
Reading by the walkway
Stairs to the street
Ascending from the street
Bridge over the park
View from the bridge
On the grass
On the grass
Sculptures by Tinguely e Niki de Saint-Palle the fountain.
View from the Centre Pompidou
View from the Centre Pompidou
El Lissitzky and Kasimir Malevich
Model by Malevich, 1923
Model by Malevich, 1923
Model by Malevich, 1923
Visitors
Porcelains by Malevich, 1923
Chagall
Chagall – Detail
Chagall – Detail
Roee Rosen Exhibition
Design: Seura Architectes – General View.
Design: Seura Architectes -View
The canopy of Les Halles was designed by Patrick Berger.
The canopy of Les Halles
The canopy of Les Halles
Entrance from the western façade
Entrance from the eastern façade
The Forum under the canopy.
Interior view
Les Halles Canopy
Interior view
Garden with Sainte Eustache in the background.
Garden over Les Halles
“The Listener” and the Saint Eustache Church
“The Listener,” sculpted by Henri Miller in 1986
“The Listener,” sculpted by Henri Miller in 1986
Château Rouge Métro station
Market
Market
At the market
Dancing rock ‘n’ roll
Dancing salsa
Dancing salsa
Dancing salsa by the Seine
Dancing salsa
By the Seine
Listening street-jazz
Argentine Meat
Window shopping
Window shopping
Designed by Henry and Bruno Gaudin. View of the gallery of Cambodian art.
View from the stairway
Cambodian art
Anghor Thom Model
Exhibition wall
View from the stairway
View from the stairway
Library
Guimet Museum
Guimet Museum
Guimet Museum
Guimet Museum
Sarcophagus, 2nd Century BC
Guimet Museum
Guimet Museum
Court
Gallerie
Les Halles, by Léon Augustin Lhermitte, 1895
La parade des humbles, by Fernand Pelez
La parade des humbles, by Fernand Pelez – Detail
Jean-Baptiste Clesinger
Painting by Charles Giron, 1883
Portrait of Sarah Bernhardt, by Georges Clarin, 1876
BERLIN’S MIX
We had visited Berlin thirty-two years ago when the infamous wall still divided the city. This time we wanted to get a feeling of the city as a whole, to visit some of its architecture, art museums and galleries, and to meet with our friend Franka Hörnschemeyer, a committed sculptor.
Coming from Paris, Berlin seemedto us a disjointed city, frequently out of human scale. However, being conscious of its intense intellectual life, I was not surprised why it had become so attractive to many artists. The city gave the feeling that it was still evolving, and that one could be part of its making.
Foster’s Reichstag dome, with its transparent structure for people sitting on top of the government, is an excellent symbol of the new Germany. The dome is essentially a viewing platform from which the public can observe the surrounding city. The design is an ultimate example of sustainable design. The inverted conical structure with a surface composed of 360 mirrors reflects light into the parliamentary chamber below to save energy on lighting. It operates in concert with a moving screen which eliminates glare.
Peter Eisenman’s Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a powerful statement, particularly because of its closeness to the Reichstag. It evokes a graveyard for those who were unburied or thrown into unmarked pits. Several uneasily tilting stelae suggest an old, untended cemetery. Libeskind’s Jewish Museum is a dissonant gesture of defiance that commemorates the loss. And last but not least, I.M Pei ’s extension to the German Historical Museum brings in modernity in Pei’s well-known architectural language.
Renzo Piano not only created the urban plan for Potsdamer Platz but also designed eight of its buildings. The buildings include the Debris-Haus, the Arkaden shopping mall and the Theater and Casino that meet in the Marlene Dietrich Platz. Other architects on additional ten buildings include Rafael Moneo, Richard Rogers, and Helmut Jahn, who designed the Sony Center, a mixture of shops, restaurants, a conference center, hotel rooms, luxurious tented suites, and condominiums.
Our visits also included Hans Scharoun’s Philarmonic, built in 1963, the Berlinische Gallery and the Hamburger Hof Museum.
Location of the airbnb
Bernhard-Weiß-Straße 1
View of Reichstag from the Paul Löbe building.
Visiting students are lectured on the Reichstag
View of dome
Dem Deutsche Volke / The German People
Lobby
Architect: Norman Foster
Reichstag, Berlin. Moving screen which eliminates glare.Architect: Norman Foster.
Reichstag Dome
Reichstag Dome
Reichstag Dome
Upper level
View of lower area
Quadruple multi-faceted selfie
Marie-Elisabeth Lüders Building
Paul Löbe building
Framing building
Jacob Kaiser Building
View from the Reichstag
From a bridge
View ith sculpture by Richard Serra on the foreground
Rear view
General view
View from the Reichstag. The roof of the Sony Center can be seen on the left.
Ben-Gurion Straße & Potsdamer Straße
Entrance to the Sony Center
Central area
Central area
Central area
Central area
Central area
Bahnhof Potsdamer Platz
City Center
Berlin TV tower, with St. Mary’s Church nearby
Berlin Cathedral
Cathedral’s dome
Balzac Coffee
German fast food
“Peace and Justice for the Saharaui People”
Plaza
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
Love
View of DZ Bank roof from the Reichstag dome
Brandenburg Gate surrounded by the French and American embassies, the area includes the DZ Bank building.
View from the bank’s lobby. Architect: Frank Gehry
View from the bank’s lobby
Rush hour
Cafes
View from the park
View from the park
Selfie
Time for a nap
Interior
Shalekhet (Fallen Leaves) by Menashe Kadishman.
Shalekhet (Fallen Leaves) by Menashe Kadishman.
Gallerie
“Under,” an installation by Israeli artist Micha Ullman
Gallery detail
Window detail
View fro the external court
View fro the external court
Rear plaza
Rear pard to the complex
Pavement
The Jewish Museum
The Jewish Museum
Pavement
Ruth and Bernard
View
View
View
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Architect: Peter Eisenman
Walking between the concrete slabs
Walking between the concrete slabs
General view
At the gallery
Portraits
Still life
Photographer and model
Photographer and model
Photographer and model
Duane Hanson, Policeman and Rioter, 1967
Collection
Duane Hanson, Policeman and Rioter, 1967
Duane Hanson, Policeman and Rioter, 1967
Collectiom
Collection
Seni Camara, Mama Africa, 1992
Reflection with Joseph Beuys’ writing
Court connecting the old and new buildings
Rear entrance
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
View from the atrium
Atrium. Architect: I. M. Pei.
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
Atrium
View fro the atrium
Stairway
Stairway
Pietr Bruegel, 1615
Luchas Chranach, Martin Luther, 1529
World map, 17th Century
Entrance area
Anton von Werner, 1906
Naum Gabo, 1918
Vladimir Tatlin, Counterrelief, 1916
Model of church, Otto Bartning, 1922
Model of church, Otto Bartning, 1922
Rudolf Belling 1920
Emilio Vedova, 1964
Emilio Vedova, 1964
Sculptures
Loredana Nemes, 2010
Loredana Nemes, 2010
Loredana Nemes, 2014
Selfie with laser beam
With Franka
Having a walk in the park
View from Adriana’s terrace
ROME’S EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE
After having lived in Rome during seven crucial years of our professional formation, being back to its streets, its people and its beauty felt like “coming back home.” Our wandering around included de Campo de’ Fiori market and the Historic Center streets and piazzas. The only target we had on our schedule was the MAXXI’s exhibitions on Bruno Zevi’s work and influence, and on Tel Aviv’s Bauhaus architecture. The recently published documentary “Zevi” illustrates the great architecture critic and historian work and personality. During a couple of days we spent there, we also managed to meet with our friends Viviana and film producer Adriana Chiesa Di Palma.
View from the street
View from the room
Location in Rome
Location in Rome
Breakfast on the roof
View from the roof
View from the roof
Walking
Green wall
The square in 1895
Market
Market
Olive oil
Fruit s and vegetables
Spices
Pasta
The shapes and colors of pasta
The shapes and colors of pasta
The shapes and colors of pasta
The shapes and colors of pasta
Fish in the shopwindow
Deli, Campo De’ Fiori, Rome.
Piazza Paradise
Winds alley
Caves’ alley
Butter street
Chilean president Salvador Allende remembering plaque
Elephant and Obelisk sculpture designed by the Italian artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Unveiled in 1667.
Elephant and Obelisk by Bernini
Panoramic view of the museum
Lobby
Lobby
Panoramic view of the lobby’s ceiling
Lobby’s reception with sign on Bruno Zevi’s exhibition
MAXXI, Rome. Architect: Zaha hadid.
View through the stairs
Exhibition celebrating Bruno Zevi’s 100th birthday – his work and his influence on architects.
Samples of “L’Architettura,” edited by Bruno Zevi over fifty years.
Model of Asse Attrezzato Master Plan Project, 1962
Detail of Asse Attrezzato model
Selfie – R&R with architect Viviana Campajola by the Asse Attrezzato model.
MAXXI Collection
Eco and Narciso – Portraits and self-portraits, by performing artist Vanessa Beecroft
Film and video projections’ hall
Museum’s store
Tel Aviv the White City exhibition
Standing by Dizengoff Square in a floor-size aerial photo of Tel Aviv
Palazzo Farnese on the left side
View with Borromini’s church of Sant’Agnese in Agone
Panoramic view at night
Bernini confronting Borromini
Dome with oculus
View of detail from the rear
Interior view
Ceiling reflection
Note wall paintings on the building at the center
View from Propaganda Fide
Piazza di Spagna aerial view
Panoramic view at night
View from Adriana’s terrace
View from Adriana’s terrace
Having diner hosted by Adriana
Having diner hosted by Adriana
Having diner hosted by Adriana
Adriana on a phone call
View from the rear of Adriana’s terrace
Memorial Hall of Israel’s Fallen in Mount Herzl entrance area
WORK-IN-PROGRESS ISRAEL
Since I have previously covered Jerusalem and Tel Aviv with two documentaries, “Jerusalem Journal” and “The City that Never Sleeps,” on this visit we decided to spend most of the time with our daughter, away from the big cities. She had recently moved to a new apartment in Hadera, midway between Tel Aviv and Haifa. The new neighborhood, Ein Hayam, combines residential towers with a peaceful beach near-by that seemed to have remained unchanged in thousands of years. Gabby’s large balcony facing the Mediterranean Sea was a daily source of relaxation. It was a perfect setting to loosen up and enjoy family life. We also spend some time exploring central Israel booming development, particularly in Netanya.
Our only architectural target was the recently inaugurated Memorial Hall of Israel’s Fallen in Mount Herzl, Israel’s National Cemetery, designed by Kimmel Eshkolot Architects.
View of Ben Gurion Airport
View of the main hall from the arrivals floor
Location of Hadera
Gabby’s location.
View from balcony
BBQ at the balcony
Looking north
Rocky area
Sunset at the beach
Mother and daughterwith floating hammock
Mother and daughter with floating hammock
Fun with a floating hammock
Blowing into a floating hammock
Running with floating hammock
Gabby’s Bruno
Curious cat
Amir building atrium
Amir building’s atrium
Gallery
At one of the galleries
Collection
Amir building atrium
Amir building atrium
Collection. Dany Karavan model for the Monument to the Negev Brigade, Beersheva.
Painting by Hagit Lalo
Photo by Ronit Porat
“He Walked in the Fields,” 1967, by Igael Tumarkin.
With kids at the museum’s cafeteria
Panoramic view
Panoramic view
Fresh tomato
Trying cheeses
Pets
Night view of surroundings
Night view of surroundings
Entrance to the Sarona market
View from the military cemetery
Entrance area
Panoramic view
“Wall of Names”
Audiovisual devices to see and listen about individuals fallen
Detail of the funel
Written on the glass railing: “And they shall beat their swords into plowshares” Book of Isaiah 2:4
Entrance
Entrance
Entrance
View of the changing landscape
Work-in-progress
Work-in-progress
Netanya new riviera
Work-in-progress
Work-in-progress
Work-in-progress
Work-in-progress
Ruth’s father young brother, 93, in Jerusalem
Old friend Babsi Pinkas, 93, in Ramat Aviv
Diner by the sea
Meeting in an alley